How do you feel about traveling overseas to surf?
I’m excited to travel again. I’ve had some amazing experiences surfing in Indonesia and Hawaii, among other locations, and now that my son has the froth for surfing too, I’m looking forward to taking him to some of these places. That said, I still love pulling up at my local with my boy and think that I can’t ever be beaten.
Most memorable surfing experience?
This might sound kind of cheesy, but I’m just grateful for every experience I get in the water these days. If I had to say one particularly memorable session, though, it would be last year at a secret spot on the Gold Coast (I know, not many of those left). I was out there with some of my best mates. The waves were insane. Then one of my mates got hit in the head by his board from him. We couldn’t find him for at least two minutes. We were terrified he’d drowned, but then we saw him floating facedown in the water, so we raced over on the jet ski and got him back to shore. Luckily, one of our other mates is a paramedic and got him breathing again. In the end, the rescue helicopter had to come and get him. That day was certainly a rollercoaster. He was wearing a float vest, which brought him to the surface – that’s what saved him.
How many boards do you own?
Right now, I’ve got about four boards on rotation: a JS board, an Album board and a couple from Gold Coast shaper Stuart Surf Design.
Do you surf on your own?
Very rarely.
Favorite surfer?
Honestly, my mate Josh, who I surf pretty much every session with. It has been epic seeing him grow from a grom to a semi-professional surfer on the World Surf League Qualifying Series when he was younger, and now into a hero firefighter. I still have my mind blown watching him surf some days.
Most like to go surfing with?
Again, I know this is cheesy, but honestly, my son, Ace.
Tips to become a better surfer?
Nothing secret about this tip: surf as much as you can.
Ever been scared in the water?
All the time. Sharks, big waves, jet skis, debris – you never know what’s coming, so you always have to keep your wits about you.
Any serious injuries or catastrophes?
No, touchwood.
Dislike anything about surfing?
Nope!
Your view on sharks?
We are in their home and must respect them.
Most like about surfing?
I’m not joking here: not having any devices on me.
What do you think about when you’re sitting out there on your board? lots. I think being in the ocean is the best meditation of all. It just calms my mind, especially if we’ve got a lot going on with Hard Fizz. It’s weird but seriously, all my worries just disappear after I get a crazy barrel or pull an epic turn. The happiness I get from surfing – be it a good or bad session – is the best feeling.
We all lead busy lives with work and family and being social, and that can get overwhelming. The past few years have been tough for me, like everyone. At one stage I was unfit, stressed and drinking a bit too much – but surfing, in combination with breath work and daily ice baths, has changed my life. I’m a better husband and father, a better business person and workmate, and just generally, a lot happier. Nothing gets me down any more.