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Australia

Work on national approach to coercive control to begin at attorneys-general meeting in Melbourne

State and territory attorneys-general are to meet with federal Attorney-General Mark Dreyfus on Friday to debate whether to criminalize coercive control across the nation.

Coercive control — a form of domestic and family violence — refers to patterns of abusive behaviors used by one person to dominate and control another in a relationship, which can leave victims feeling powerless, isolated and a hostage in their own home.

Families of those victims and case workers have welcomed the federal government’s push for a national understanding of the term.

States and territories are at different stages of considering whether to criminalize coercive control in their own jurisdictions.

Mr Dreyfus said Friday’s meeting of the nation’s first law officers in Melbourne would see the first steps towards a nationally consistent approach.

“We know from early research that coercive control is an extremely common feature of abusive relationships, but it is not always well understood across the community,” Mr Dreyfus told the ABC.

“There are some differences [between jurisdictions]which is why reaching agreement — at least at a draft level — on what are national principles to address coercive control, is a really good step forward.”

Queensland and New South Wales have already moved to criminalize coercive control, while Victoria and Tasmania say existing laws cover the offences.

Other states have expressed in-principle support for new laws or a nationally consistent approach.

Mr Dreyfus said having a national consensus would lead to a higher level of understanding and the possibility of remaining jurisdictions criminalizing the behaviours.

Attorney-General Mark Dreyfus speaks to the media.
Attorney-General Mark Dreyfus wants a national consistency approach. (AAP: Lukas Coch/File)

“We are hoping that, at [Friday’s] meeting, we are going to be able to approve for release national principles to address coercive control and we think that will help get to a coordinated national approach,” he said.

“It won’t necessarily be that every state will get to criminalizing this behaviour, but if we can get to a much wider understanding in the community of what this is, that will help our ultimate aim of keeping women and children safe.”

National push welcomed by father of domestic violence victim

The move towards a national framework has been welcomed by the father of Hannah Clarke, who was murdered, along with her three children, by her estranged husband.

Lloyd Clarke said he always knew something was wrong, but wasn’t familiar with the term coercive control at the time.

“There were no physical marks but we knew there were mental marks,” Mr Clarke said.

Hannah Clarke with Aaliyah and Laianah at the beach
Hannah Clarke and her children were murdered by her estranged husband in 2020. (Supplied: Lloyd Clarke)

“He was trying to control her mentally. Wanting to know where she was, even asking the children.”

When he was subsequently told this amounted to coercive control, Mr Clarke and his wife, Sue, launched a campaign for Queensland to criminalize the behaviour.

“We thought, ‘Well, we didn’t know about it so there must be a lot of people out there who don’t know about coercive control and we need to educate people on that’,” Mr Clarke told the ABC.

After the Clarke family’s campaign, Queensland committed to criminalizing coercive behavior with a pledge to have laws in place by 2023.

Mr Clarke said he was “ecstatic” to hear that state and territory attorneys-general were willing to work together on the issue.

“It’s another step ahead of our [state-based] campaign and that’s great,” Mr Clarke said.

Coercive control often hard to provide to authorities, counselor says

Kirrilly Salvestro — a domestic violence counselor working in western New South Wales — said a national approach would improve clarity between states.

However, she said, providing evidence of coercive behavior was notoriously difficult, particularly in states that are looking to criminalize and punish the behaviour.

“For example, isolation from friends and family: How do you prove that to authorities?” Ms Salvestro said.

“How do you prove that your partner may have been monitoring your activity unless you have a way to prove that they have been bugging your phone or putting trackers on your vehicles?”

Ms Salvestro — who is deputy chief executive officer of the Linking Communities Network — said it was important for any national definition to reflect the scale of the damage caused.

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“In any discussion, we need to make sure that we get it right the first time,” Ms Salvestro said.

“[We need] to include everything that needs to be encompassed and the recognition that children are involved in coercive control as well, all that needs to be included.”

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US

Trump Hires #BillionDollarLawyer – The New York Times

ATLANTA — Amid a deepening swirl of federal and state investigations, former President Donald J. Trump has hired a prominent Atlanta lawyer to represent him in a criminal inquiry into election interference in Georgia.

The lawyer, Drew Findling, has represented an array of rap stars including Cardi B, Gucci Mane and Migos, and is known by the hashtag #BillionDollarLawyer. But he is also well regarded for a range of criminal defense work that he has done in Georgia, and his hiring of him underscores the seriousness of the investigation — as well as the potential legal jeopardy for Mr. Trump.

The investigation is being led by Fani T. Willis, the district attorney of Fulton County, which encompasses much of Atlanta. At least 17 people have been designated as targets who could face criminal charges. Mr. Trump is not among them, but a special grand jury is continuing to consider evidence and testimony, with several top Trump advisers still to appear. Ms. Willis has said that she is weighing a number of potential criminal charges, including racketeering and conspiracy.

In a hearing on Tuesday, a state judge told lawyers for Mr. Trump’s personal attorney, Rudolph W. Giuliani, that their client needed to travel to Atlanta to testify next week. On Wednesday, lawyers for Senator Lindsey Graham of South Carolina faced a skeptical reception from a federal judge to their efforts to quash a subpoena from Ms. Willis’s office seeking the senator’s testimony. The lawyers for Mr. Graham who appeared in court included Donald McGahn, former White House counsel for Mr. Trump.

Mr. Findling brings decades of trial experience ranging from high-profile murder cases to local political corruption scandals. But in the past, he has been openly — indeed, scathingly — critical of the former president.

2018 post on Twitter, after Mr. Trump criticized LeBron James, Mr. Findling referred to Mr. Trump as “the racist architect of fraudulent Trump University.” In 2017, after Mr. Trump fired the US attorney in Manhattan, Preet Bharara, Mr. Findling said on Twitter that the firing was “a sign of FEAR that he would aggressively investigate the stench hovering over this POTUS.”

I have also called Mr. Trump’s history of harsh comments about the five Black and Latino men who as teenagers were wrongly convicted of the brutal rape of a jogger in Central Park “racist, cruel, sick, unforgivable, and un-American!”

In a phone interview on Thursday, Mr. Findling explained his decision to take on Mr. Trump by referring to John Adams, who took the unpopular position of representing British troops after the Boston Massacre.

“I do not believe that we choose our client or clients based on race, ethnicity, sexual orientation, gender, political belief or the substantive issues involved in the crime,” he said. “We have our personal lives and we have our personal politics, and I don’t apologize for my personal politics,” he added.

Mr. Findling also drew upon the kinds of First Amendment issues that often arise in criminal cases at the nexus of hip-hop and crime and maintained that Mr. Trump had done nothing improper in Georgia. He mentioned Mr. Trump’s infamous taped phone call on Jan. 2, 2021, with Brad Raffensperger, the Georgia secretary of state, and specifically addressed the moment when Mr. Trump pressed Mr. Raffensperger to “find” 11,780 votes that could overturn Mr. Biden’s victory in Georgia, which some legal experts say may amount to solicitation to commit election fraud under Georgia law.

“Somebody listens to a rap song that lasts for four minutes and 11 seconds and pulls one verse out and tries to conjure up some type of criminal case out of it,” said Mr. Findling, who said that in both the phone call and a rap song, context was crucial.

The conversation with Mr. Raffensperger, he added, amounted to an effort to “negotiate a resolution” to a civil legal matter.

Mr. Findling said he was part of a Georgia-based legal team now working for Mr. Trump that includes Jennifer Little, a former DeKalb County prosecutor, and Dwight L. Thomas, a veteran defense lawyer who previously worked with the Office for Civil Rights at the US Education Department.

“The presence of this high-priced and high-powered legal talent signifies the exceptional national importance of the fast-moving investigation and the likely imminent charges against the former president and possibly others in his circle,” said Norman Eisen, who served as special counsel to the House Judiciary Committee during the first Trump impeachment. Mr. Eisen was a co-author of a 114-page Brookings Institution analysis of the Georgia case last year that found Mr. Trump “at substantial risk of possible state charges predicated on multiple crimes.”

That Mr. Trump would choose a lawyer well known in the hip-hop world is not out of character for the former president, who has a long and complicated history of interacting with famous rap figures. Mr. Trump earned the support of Kanye West and pardoned or commuted sentences for a number of influential rap figures, including Lil Wayne and Kodak Black.

Mr. Findling has previously been sharply critical of a crackdown by Ms. Willis on rappers and those accused of being gang members; he represents YFN Lucci, an Atlanta rap artist who was indicted on murder and racketeering charges in Fulton County last year.

Mr. Findling also has extensive experience with political clients. In 2013, he helped win the acquittal of Victor Hill, the sheriff of Clayton County, Ga., who had been indicted on a host of corruption-related charges after an investigation by a special grand jury. Mr. Hill also retained Mr. Findling after he was federally indicted last year on numerous civil rights charges for the alleged mistreatment of detainees at the local jail. He has been suspended from his position pending a trial set for October.

Mr. Findling also recently represented Mitzi Bickers, who once worked in the administration of the former mayor of Atlanta, Kasim Reed, a Democrat. Ms. Bickers was convicted in March on nine federal corruption counts as part of a multimillion-dollar contracting and kickback scandal.

And he is representing John Oxendine, the former insurance commissioner of Georgia, a Republican who was indicted in May on federal charges of conspiracy to commit health care fraud and conspiracy to commit money laundering.

Esther Panitch, a veteran Atlanta-area criminal defense lawyer and Democratic nominee for a state House seat, has known Mr. Findling for years. She called him “brilliant.”

“That being said, he needs a client who will listen to him,” she said, adding: “You can’t hold Drew responsible if his client refuses to take his advice. And Trump is the kind of client that lawyers fear. Because he can’t be controlled.”

Joe Coscarelli contributed reporting.

Categories
Business

Goldman Sachs gives its verdict on the CSL share price

A doctor appears shocked as he looks through binoculars on a blue background.

Image source: Getty Images

the CSL Limited (ASX: CSL) share price has been on a decent run over the last couple of months.

Since the middle of June, the biotherapeutics company’s shares have risen to a sizeable 14%.

This compares to a gain of approximately 6% for the benchmark ASX 200 index.

Why is the CSL share price on a roll?

Investors have been bidding the CSL share price higher due to the release of very positive industry data.

That data shows that plasma collection levels are now back to pre-COVID levels in the United States at long last.

This is a big positive for CSL as plasma is a key ingredient in many of its most lucrative therapies. When it was in short supply, the company was paying more than normal for donations, which was putting pressure on its margins. With supply now back to normal and collection prices reducing, CSL should soon start to see its margins improve again.

All in all, the general consensus is that CSL is now over the worst of its issues, and it is onwards and upwards from here. But will it be onwards and upwards for the CSL share price?

Where are its shares heading?

According to a note out of Goldman Sachs, its analysts believe CSL’s shares may be close to peaking for the time being.

This morning the broker has summarized coverage on the company with a neutral rating and $307.00 price target. This implies potential upside of just 5% from the current CSL share price of $292.35.

Goldman believes that the company’s shares are about fair value now based on multiple historic earnings. It explained:

Valuation of 34x NTM P/E has now recovered to the 5yr avg, and is back above the 10yr (29x). We believe risk-reward is once again well-balanced, and reinstate our rating at Neutral, with a 12-month TP of A$307.

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Technology

How to pre-order the Samsung Galaxy Watch 5 in Australia

SamsungGalaxyWatch5_Supplied_1800x1000

Pick up Samsung’s latest foray into the wearable world while maximizing value thanks to these pre-order offers.

Samsung Unpacked was not the most surprising tech reveal ever, as it was well-known ahead of time that we’d be seeing the likes of the Samsung Galaxy Z Fold and Z Flip 4, the Galaxy Buds 2 Pro and the Galaxy Watch 5 and Watch 5 Pro. Anticipation has been building for months now, so we’re plenty excited to see these devices finally up for grabs.

Here’s where you can pre-order the Galaxy Watch 5 and its Pro edition in Australia, ahead of their release on 2 September. For information on pre-ordering the new Samsung Z series phones, check out our complete guide here. For a comprehensive rundown of everything we saw unveiled at Samsung Unpacked, click here.

Samsung Galaxy Watch 5

Pre-order Galaxy Watch 5 on Samsung

Pre-order Galaxy Watch 5 on Amazon

It’s evolution rather than revolution when it comes to the Galaxy Watch 5. You’ll get to choose between 40mm and 44mm sizes and Bluetooth and LTE connection types. The polarizing rotating bezel is out, replaced by a virtual equivalent.

As you would expect for a new generation, the Galaxy Watch 5 comes with additional health-tracking features. The 3-in-1 “BioActive” sensor which measures optical heart rate, electrical heart signal and bioelectrical impedance has been made larger and Samsung claims it will be more accurate than ever.

Sleep tracking is more advanced and will measure your rest journey over time. Another prominent feature is Glow Fertility, which provides advanced data regarding menstrual cycles including fertility windows and ovulation days. Battery has also been boosted and if you make your pre-order with Samsung you’ll get a free fast wireless charger.

In the 40mm size, the Galaxy Watch 5 carries an RRP of $499 for the Bluetooth edition and $599 for the LTE edition. In the 44mm size, you’ll be paying $549 for Bluetooth connectivity and $649 for LTE functionality.

Interested in the entire suite of new Galaxy devices? Take advantage of Amazon’s ecosystem bundle deals on the Samsung Galaxy Z Fold 4 and Z Flip 4, including the Galaxy Watch 5.

Samsung Galaxy Watch 5 Pro

Pre-order Galaxy Watch 5 Pro on Samsung

Pre-order Galaxy Watch 5 Pro on Amazon

What sets the Galaxy Watch 5 Pro apart? Firstly, it comes with a larger 45mm display and a larger 590mAh battery, which Samsung claims will afford a whopping 80 hours of “general use”.

Durability is also a major component of the watch, which features a sapphire crystal display and titanium casing to ensure it can survive the most rugged conditions. So if you’ve been dreaming of a smartwatch that can accompany you into the deepest valley or on top of the highest mountain, you’ve just found it.

In keeping with this focus on outdoor functionality, the Galaxy Watch 5 Pro features GPX tracking, allowing users to share geographic information, reliably track routes and retrace their steps with a Track Back feature.

The Galaxy Watch 5 Pro also distinguishes itself in another major area: price. It’ll set you back $799 for the Bluetooth version and $849 for the LTE edition.

It’s an eye-watering figure and if you’re on a tighter budget it’s definitely worth waiting for the reviews to come in before blowing that much on a wearable. But if you’re a diehard Samsung fanatic and you’re sure you’ll fall in love with this resistant wristwatch, grab it from Samsung or Amazon now.

Need more info on the latest and greatest tech? Head over to Technology Finder.

Categories
Entertainment

Frederick Waite Jr dead at 55: Tributes paid to drummer of Pass the Dutchie band Musical Youth

One of the stars of a hit British band that produced one of the 1980s most seminal reggae songs has died at the age of 55.

Frederic Waite Jr was the drummer in Birmingham band Musical Youth.

The band performed their defining song, Pass the Dutchiejust days ago at the closing ceremony of the Commonwealth Games.

In 1982, the cannabis inspired anthem went to number one on the charts in the UK, Australia, New Zealand, and Ireland and reached the top 10 of the US Billboard chart.

It also had a recent resurgence after featuring in the hit Netflix show Stranger Things.

On Wednesday, the ban announced the death of Waite Jr on social media.

“We are sad to announce the passing of Musical Youth’s drummer Frederick Waite Jr.

“Our thoughts go out to him and his family during this sad time. We have lost a musical legend, who inspired many young musicians over the last 40 years,” the tribute stated.

Rest in Eternal Peace.

Waite, known as “Freddie” died on July 20 in Birmingham with details only being announced now. It is not known what caused his death.

The British-Jamaican band formed in the UK’s second city in 1979.

They first performed for students at their own school, Duddeston High, in the city, reported website Birmingham Live.

Pass the Dutchie was the first single after the group signed to a major label, in their case MCA Records.

Musical Youth was the first black act to have a music video played on the then new music channel MTV.

Debut-album The Youth of Today, also released in 1982, was certified gold in the UK and Canada and spawned a number of further hit singles. Musical Youth were also nominated for a Grammy Award for best new band in 1984.

The band disbanded in 1985. Two of the band members, Dennis Seaton and Michael Grant, resurrected the band as a duo in 2001.

The band came back together for the closing ceremony of the Commonwealth Games in on July 20 as part of a celebration of Birmingham culture alongside singer Beverley Knight, the band UB40 and a TV show Peaky Blinders.

However Waite did not appear with another drummer taking his place.

Tributes have poured in for Waite with people saying it was “beyond sad,” and remembering his youth in Birmingham.

“How incredibly sad, Freddie, you inspired so many black British teenagers in the 1980s and made them realize their dreams could come true,” one said.

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Categories
Australia

Baby Pacific oysters offer long-term solution for QX-disease-affected farmers

Millions of baby oysters have been shipped from Tasmania to offer hope to New South Wales growers whose harvests have been decimated by QX disease.

The parasite, which essentially blocks an oyster’s gut and “starves it to death”, was first detected in Sydney rock oysters at Port Stephens last year.

It has crippled local businesses and had a wider impact on the state’s $50 million oyster industry.

“Farmers in Tilligerry Creek have seen some pretty significant losses there,” Port Stephens oyster grower Matt Burgoyne said.

“Mortalities of up to 90 per cent of their stock, from their baby stock right through to stock that they’re ready to sell. It’s really devastating.

“As of February this year the parasite seems to have spread rapidly throughout the whole of Port Stephens and there are really not any areas, harvest areas or growing areas, that are free from it.”

Port Stephens is renowned for producing Sydney rock oysters, but the Tasmanian deliveries will offer growers a chance to grow a different species — the Pacific oyster.

A man on a boat looks out to sea.
Matt Burgoyne’s farm has been operating in Port Stephens for more than 60 years.(Supplied: XL Oysters)

The Tasmanian Pacific oysters will also go to producers in the Hawkesbury region.

“[They are] disease resistant, they’re not susceptible to the QX parasite and so we see it at the moment as really our only way forward to keeping farms viable and being able to trade into the future,” Mr Burgoyne said.

Pacific oyster farmer Ellen Duke is the third generation of growers from southern Tasmania.

After hearing of the Port Stephens QX outbreak, she said it really hit home.

“These growers were going through such a hard time… the floods and now QX,” she said.

“We really feel their pain because we went through something really similar with [Pacific Oyster Mortality Syndrome] down in Tasmania.”

Spat welcome but no quick fix

Millions of baby oysters, or spat, have been sent in what Ms Duke said was only the first batch.

But they would take about 12 months to grow to a sellable size.

Tiny, baby oysters in a lady's hand.  There are more in a bucket below.
It will take 12 to 18 months for these baby oysters, or spat, to grow to a saleable size.(Supplied: Yumbah Aquaculture)

“Farmers are still up against a year without income,” Mr Burgoyne said.

“The mood in Port Stephens is very sombre.

“We’ve got generational oyster farms, farms that have farmers who are ready to retire and reap the rewards of many years of hard work, and a lot of that at the moment has lost value and seems to have come to nothing.”

The Pacific oysters mature twice as fast as Sydney rock oysters and Ms Duke said many farmers produced both.

“What the Pacifics can do, hopefully, is give them a bit of risk diversification,” she said.

Research is underway in a bid to breed QX-resistant Sydney rock oysters but little progress has been made to date.

Mr Burgoyne held on to hope that the region would get back to producing its high-quality oysters in the coming years.

“We pride ourselves in NSW on being able to grow Sydney rock oysters and it’s obviously an oyster that is a point of difference and traditionally has always been sought after,” he said.

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Categories
US

Beto O’Rourke drops F-bomb on gun control heckler while discussing Uvalde shooting

Update: 4:56 pm with Abbott spokesman saying heckler was not affiliated with governor’s campaign.

Beto O’Rourke is defending the F-bomb he dropped Wednesday night while confronting a heckler who he said was laughing during his remarks about the Uvalde mass shooting that killed 19 elementary school students and two teachers.

The incident occurred during a rally in Mineral Wells as O’Rourke began talking about the need to curb mass shootings like the one that happened May 24 at Robb Elementary School. A man in the crowd could be seen and heard laughing as O’Rourke talked about Uvalde, prompting the Democratic nominee for governor to respond with an expletive.

“It may be funny to you, motherf—–, but it’s not funny to me,” O’Rourke said to the heckler.

The moment caused a stir on social media, and the Democrat’s campaign addressed it.

“There’s nothing funny about 19 kids being shot to death in their classrooms, and there’s nothing okay about refusing to act so it doesn’t happen again,” said Chris Evans, O’Rourke’s chief spokesman.

In a tweet after the Mineral Wells rally, O’Rourke defended his stance.

“Nothing more serious to me than getting justice for the families in Uvalde and stopping this from ever happening again,” he tweeted.

Mark Miner, the chief spokesman for Texas Gov. Greg Abbott, said Thursday that the Mineral Wells heckler was “not affiliated in any way” with the governor’s reelection campaign.

Though O’Rourke was criticized for using expletives on the campaign trail during his race against Sen. Ted Cruz in 2018, the Mineral Wells crowd applauded wildly after the moment Wednesday night.

It wasn’t the first time he had an exchange with a heckler over Uvalde, either. He addressed someone laughing at an event in Snyder last month when Uvalde came up.

O’Rourke, a former El Paso congressman, is running for governor against incumbent Republican Gov. Greg Abbott. The Uvalde massacre has been a flashpoint in the campaign, with high emotions over mass shootings in El Paso and elsewhere in Texas. During a news conference after the shooting, O’Rourke confronted Abbott and was escorted out of the room.

The full video of the town hall in this tweet includes the explicit language that may offend some.

Categories
Business

ASIC chairman sounds alarm over crypto investing boom

Longo says ASIC has been working closely with the government on new regulations, including the issue of unregulated financial advice provided online, which has become a popular source of information for new investors.

Of those surveyed, 41 per cent said they received their investing information from social media platforms such as Facebook, Reddit, TikTok and YouTube. ASIC recently cracked down on social media ‘finfluencers’ who had been providing unregulated financial advice through such channels, a move some warned could see useful money tips unnecessarily removed from the web.

Bitcoin and other cryptocurrencies proved popular with investors during the pandemic.

Bitcoin and other cryptocurrencies proved popular with investors during the pandemic.Credit:Bloomberg

ASIC’s head of markets Calissa Aldridge said unregulated online financial advice would continue to be a point of focus for the market watchdog, but acknowledged the rise of social media advice was helping younger investors get a footing.

“We need to recognize that access to a broad range of channels and information has actually been, on the whole, helpful for investors. We’ve had lots of new entrants who have been able to quickly upskill and delve more deeply or more broadly into a range of products,” she said.

Angel Zhong, an associate professor of finance at RMIT, said the survey’s findings of investors’ heavy reliance on finfluencers and limited knowledge of consumer protections justified ASIC’s crackdown earlier this year.

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“However, as this survey was conducted last year, the effectiveness of the crackdown on finfluencers remains to be seen. Some finfluencers did do a good job in improving financial literacy in an engaging way,” she said.

“The absence of finfluencers, limited knowledge of inexperienced investors and lack of good information sources for investment may have an adverse impact on retail investors’ financial and mental wellbeing, especially during recent market crashes.”

The Business Briefing newsletter delivers major stories, exclusive coverage and expert opinion. Sign up to get it every weekday morning.

Categories
Technology

Nobody Is Playing Netflix’s Games

It’s been nearly two years since Netflix began its big push into gaming, and the streaming giant’s presence as a household name isn’t quite translating. According to recent findings from analytics company Apptopia, 99 percent of the service’s users have never touched a single video game on the platform. If you’ve played any of their titles, congratulations: You are the one percent.

Although perhaps not shocking, this news is eyebrow-raising. Netflix lost some 970,000 subscribers last quarter, and it seems the company is unlikely to recoup them by recruiting gamers. The stats obtained by CNBC via Apptopia reveal that games on the platform have an average of 1.7 million daily users—a fraction of Netflix’s subscriber base of 221 million. The total number of downloads for those games is about 23.3 million.

Tech giants dipping into gaming is hardly new. Amazon and Google have tried their hand by hiring all-star talent and working on in-house studios. Yet despite their best efforts, big companies with money have been unable to brute force their way to success. Video games are a yearslong endeavor requiring the hard work and talent of teams that can range from a handful of independent creators to hundreds of developers across the globe. Even when they produce decent games, as Netflix has, it takes more than a few titles to lure people away from their PlayStation, Switch, Steam, or Xbox ecosystems—or even the new season of Bridgerton—to play them. Netflix knows that its biggest competition for attention on your phone comes down to apps like TikTok.

Part of the problem, for Netflix at least, might be about awareness. Despite acquiring outfits like Oxenfree creator Night School Studio and Dungeon Boss developer Boss Fight Entertainment, the company’s investment into games doesn’t show in the way it markets and promotes them. (Just look at sites publishing well-read how-tos for finding Netflix games.) The streamer doesn’t have the best reputation when it comes to luring eyes to some of its more original ventures. The largely unknown fan site it launched in December had barely begun to germinate when it cut the majority of staff. It’s canceled dozens of shows after just one season—a list that continues to grow. With games, it seems, Netflix barely let users know they were there at all.

It would be easy to say the streaming giant isn’t gaining gamers because their offerings are bad, but they’re not. Titles like sci-fi strategy game Into the Breach and card game Exploding Kittens are established hits that have done well on other platforms ahead of their mobile releases for Netflix. Originals that expand the company’s streaming universes, like its stranger things games, have built-in fanbases. Critics have positive things to say, seemingly in spite of themselves. The games just haven’t been given time to gain traction.

Netflix did not respond to requests for comment about Apptopia’s findings or its handling of current titles, though the giant has been clear about its continued ambition for mobile gaming. The company has plans to offer roughly 50 games by the end of 2022, including new releases such as telling lies creator Sam Barlow’s next title, immortality. Netflix is ​​fond of iteration and its self-described “crawl, walk, run” model. Obviously, gaming is still in that infant stage.

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Categories
Entertainment

‘It became a mainstay’: How Issey Miyake helped define Melbourne style | australian fashion

EITHERne evening during Melbourne design week, I was drinking warm prosecco in a dimly lit third-floor office that overlooked Russell Street in the city’s centre. A friend had asked me to accompany her to the exhibition opening being held there. Of course, the office belonged to an architecture firm.

The crowd was stylish in a typically Melbourne way. There were black-rimmed glasses, workman’s jackets and designer sneakers in every corner. But as I scanned the photographers and brand directors in attendance, I realized at least half the room was wearing the floating, sculptural silhouettes of Issey Miyake, easily distinguishable by the tiny, perfect pleats that somehow give form and also take it away.

Miyake died this week at the age of 84, leaving behind a formidable legacy. He founded his studio de el in the early 1970s and was one of the first Japanese designers to present collections in Paris. He began to experiment with pleating in the late 1980s, finally patenting the heat-pressing technique that created permanent pleats in polyester in 1993.

A model wears Issey Miyake from Melbourne boutique Shifting Worlds during Melbourne fashion week in 2019.
A model wears Issey Miyake from Melbourne boutique Shifting Worlds during Melbourne fashion week in 2019. Photograph: Mackenzie Sweetnam/WireImage
A model wears Issey Miyake from Melbourne boutique Shifting Worlds during Melbourne fashion week in 2019. (Photo by Mackenzie Sweetnam/WireImage)
An Issey Miyake design from Shifting Worlds. Photograph: Mackenzie Sweetnam/WireImage

This formed the basis of Pleats Please, the line of clothing that is arguably his most recognisable, with its loosely tapered pants, tops with the shoulder and sleeve rounded into one, and rippling calf-length shift dresses. This look, often accessorized with his signature Bao Bao bag, has become synonymous with Melbourne style (to the point of occasional parody).

That each shape can be worn with something sporty such as a sneaker, or something delicate like a strappy sandal, is a credit to the joy, universality and freedom Miyake determinedly imbued in his garments.

Nayna wearing her Issey Miyake Bao Bao bag at the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne
Nayna wearing her Issey Miyake Bao Bao bag at the National Gallery of Victoria, Melbourne Photograph: @naynav / Instagram

Robyn Healy, a professor of fashion design at RMIT University, says this fluidity is why his designs have been part of Melbourne’s fashion culture since the early 1980s. “Dressing in clothes that were not based on European traditions of making, gender or season alignment appealed to Melburnians,” she says. In contrast to the body consciousness one might typically associate with Australian style, residents of the country’s self-proclaimed cultural capital “were attracted to clothing that draped, wrapped or hung around the body”.

Shifting Worlds staff member Su wearing Issey Miyake Pleats Please pants on the shop floor.
Shifting Worlds staff member Su wears Issey Miyake Pleats Please pants on the shop floor in Melbourne. Photograph: Shifting Worlds

Lucinia Pinto carried Issey Miyake at several boutiques she owned across the city from the 1970s to the early 2000s. She is firm in her belief that his designs influenced the way Melburnians dress. “The clothing appealed to people who appreciated art… So, it became a mainstay of Melbourne architects, for instance, who loved the detailed construction and the fit.”

In 1997, she collaborated with Miyake to open Australia’s first and only Issey Miyake store in South Yarra. She describes it as a vaulted space, made up of lime-green wall panels and a white vinyl floor. “It was the perfect backdrop for her work which was a mixture of tailored and pleated items, many of them Melbourne-black, but others in electrifying colours.”

Five years later Pinto closed all of her boutiques, making Miyake harder for Melbourne’s creative class to find – at least until the advent of online shopping.

Now, two decades later, the soft shapes and amorphous hemlines are available at Shifting Worlds on Elizabeth Street. Maya Webb, the store’s owner, attests to the longevity of the clothes – some of her clients of her still have Miyake pieces they bought from Pinto in the 1990s. “Miyake designs seem to be held on to in a way that other brands aren’t,” she says.

A Melbourne fashion festival attendee wears an outfit by local label Gorman in a style reminiscent of Issey Miyake's designs.  (Photo by Naomi Rahim/WireImage)
A Melbourne fashion festival attendee wears an outfit by local label Gorman in a style reminiscent of Issey Miyake’s designs. Photograph: Naomi Rahim/WireImage

She believes Melburnians love Miyake because “it fits so well into a ‘casual luxury’ category” that suits a city defined by its culture, not its beaches.

Pinto describes Miyake’s work as “a joyful, sculptural ‘dance’ of fabric to partner the human form”. Fashion that sits in the nexus between construction and art has had a lasting impact on local designers. From the ruching and necklines of Permanent Vacation to the draping and form of Alpha60, Miyake’s influence is evident.

Alpha60’s creative director, Georgie Cleary, says: “He managed to combine art, fashion and innovation so seamlessly in his designs, and this is something we continually strive for.”